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Honolulu, Hawai'i

Misria

INGREDIENTS

2 cups flour

3⁄4 cup water

1 tablespoon shortening

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Mix all ingredients together.

3. Turn onto a floured board and knead for five minutes.

4. Let dough rest for 10 minutes.

5. Roll out half of the dough to 1/4 inch thick.

6. Use the rim of a cup or bowl cut out 12 circles, each about 3" across.

7. Use a fork to prick the center of the circle a few times.

8. Arrange on 2 baking sheets and bake for 15 minutes.

9. Turn oven off and leave crackers in oven until completely cool.

In the context of panel 37, “Sensory methods for planetary survival,” I will offer a “tiny workshop” focused on Saloon Pilot Crackers, a form of hardtack manufactured in Honolulu by Diamond Bakery. This tasting is part of a multi-year arts-led project called Tasting History: Biscuits, Culture, and National Identity, takes taste as a research method for uncovering how ancient military rations cut across socioeconomic divides to become staples of mainstream diets. Diamond Bakery’s recipe uses lard to soften hardtack, also known as ship’s biscuits, army biscuits, cabin bread, kanpan, sea bread, and a host of other names. Hidegoro Murai, Kikutaro Hiruya and Natsu Muramoto founded Diamond Bakery in 1921. Several pilot cracker manufacturers have ceased production in recent years, including Nabisco’s Crown Pilot and Hilo Macaroni Factory’s pilot cracker. Diamond Bakery’s crackers are special, a little bit rare even. Hardtack arrived in Hawai’i with whaling and missionary ships. Saloon Pilot crackers carry material relations of multispecies environmental injustices experienced in these contexts. Crackers are also delicious and beloved, widely consumed, and adapted to cuisines around the world. Pilot Crackers are a site of everyday pleasures—for example, eating the crackers with guava jelly and condensed milk, or, as the author of the above recipe recounts, a childhood memory: “My parents would break the plain cracker up into a cup of coffee and milk and have it for breakfast.” Pilot Crackers are land and sea, whale and harpoon, they are more and more difficult to find and eat. They form digestive networks, following what Parama Roy describes as “the logic of permeability rather than of inviolability that often marks the workings of an alimentary order” (20). Writing about poi, Hi’ilei Julia Hobart describes the difference between tasting and thinking with the mouth and tasting and thinking with the stomach, finding that when eaters “think with their mouths, not their stomachs, …they consume a food rather than enact a genealogical connection” (143). Hobart’s distinction between consuming a food through the mouth versus enacting a genealogical connection through the stomach could model the how environmental justice might taste. Hardtack, often positioned as a bland and unremarkable substrate for other foods, has the capacity to juxtapose cultural practices of food and eating with genealogies and histories of injustice that can be tasted, felt, and digested.

References

Hobart, Hiʻilei Julia. “A ‘Queer-Looking Compound’: Race, Abjection, and the Politics of Hawaiian Poi.” Global Food History 3:2 (2017).

Roy, Parama. Alimentary Tracts: Appetites, Aversions, and the Postcolonial. Durham, NC: Duke, 2010.

Recipe by J-Ha7037: https://www.food.com/recipe/saloon-hard-track-pilot-crackers-351299

Source:

Kelley, Lindsay. 2023. "Taste Workshop: Daimond Bakery, Honolulu, Hawai'i." In 4S Paraconference X EiJ: Building a Global Record, curated by Misria Shaik Ali, Kim Fortun, Phillip Baum and Prerna Srigyan. Annual Meeting of the Society of Social Studies of Science. Honolulu, Hawai'i, Nov 8-11.

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck
  1. With this organization's work, how does it center the voices and experiences of marginalized communities in its work, and what steps does it take to ensure accountability and transparency? 

  2. How does the organization evaluate its impact and measure its success within the community?

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck

 APEN is centralized around addressing the issues faced within the Asian American Pacific Islander working class, immigrant, and refugee communities within California. The organization seeks to empower these communities to participate in critical conversations that dictate their neighborhoods’ future, health, wellness, and prosperity. In the broader sense, APEN’s work contributes to the whole movement that seeks to amplify a message that all people should have the human right to an environmentally just world.

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck
  1. APEN is seen as a grassroots environmental justice group that has proven effective in advocating for the Asian American Pacific Islander community. Other environmental organizations and community organizers often praise the organization for its work.

  2. APEN releases its own Press Releases on its website and within its network, speaking on the critical issues relating to the efforts they support.

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck

The Asian Pacific Environmental Network functions within the environmental justice movement, following the response and emergent growth of disproportionate impacts of environmental hazards and pollution among low-income communities of color across the United States. APEN has stood its ground in local, statewide, and national environmental justice campaigns. It has been recognized as a leading organization in the movement for EiJ for its innovative approaches to community organizing and policy advocacy.

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck
  1.  APEN is a member organization of the California Environmental Justice Alliance coalition. They also partner with Filipino Advocates for Justice, the Chinese Progressive Association, Hmong Innovating Politics, and the AAPIs For Civic Empowerment Education Fund.

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck
  1. APEN works at the intersection of environmental and economic justice, immigrant rights, and advocating for policies prioritizing the needs of low-income Asian American and Pacific Islander communities. Many of the issues in AAPI communities are rooted in a legacy of colonization and imperialism within the United States. APEN prioritizes these concerns by directly supporting the voices and leadership at the frontlines of their community's work. 

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck
  1. The APEN serves Asian American Pacific Islander communities; institutionalized racism and inequality contribute to the disproportionate impacts of environmental harms on low-income communities of color. In creating alternative solutions, the lack of political will from local, state, and federal agencies is complex, especially when highly contested to the profitability of corporations. 

  2. The work of APEN heavily relies on community support and funding to carry out its work. There are challenges in acquiring the means to make a meaningful impact within the communities they serve. 

  3. The complexity of environmental pollution and climate change creates complex and multifaceted problems that demand innovative and unique solutions. 

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck
  1. The APEN is committed to building grassroots power in Asian American and Pacific Islander communities to achieve environmental and social justice. Their approach to community organizing revolves around building long-term, sustainable solutions that center on the leadership of the most impacted communities. APEN works to build robust and democratic community organizations that strengthen the broader environmental justice movement.

Beck, Nyah E. | Winter 2023 EiJ Annotations

nebeck

APEN’s researchers work to produce a range of data related to the Environmental and Social Justice issues that affect Asian American Communities. This organization also has a solid commitment to emphasizing the voices of community members and ensuring that their stories and experiences are represented.